Giara di Gesturi
map of Giara di Gesturi with marked places of interest
The Giara di Gesturi is a plateau of volcanic origin.
It is about 12 km long and 5 km wide. The slopes drop very steeply, and the plateau at the top is flat as a board.
Access to the various parking lots is completely unproblematic – although the roads are sometimes narrow, they are consistently paved.
Already on the way there are wonderful views of the plains of Campidano and Marmilla.
The Nuraghe complex of Su Nuraxi can also be easily seen from here.
The Giara is famous above all for its small wild horses, but some archaeological relics can also be found here.
Due to its uniqueness, the entire Giara di Gesturi has been declared a reserve and is now under strict nature protection.
Families with children can hike here very well, as there are hardly any differences in altitude to overcome throughout the entire plateau. However, a good sense of orientation is necessary.
The paths often branch off, there are hardly any signposts, and visibility is limited due to trees and bushes blocking the view.
At the parking lots on the edge of Giara (see map), there are almost always helpful rangers who are happy to give you some tips and sell hiking maps.
For longer tours, a compass or GPS device is recommended.
The plateau can be reached by vehicle from three access points.
The most well-known and commonly used is the one via Gesturi. It’s usually much quieter at Tuili and Setzu.
For our excursion, we initially chose to approach via Tuili.
From the parking lot, a path runs along the edge of Giara to the Church of Santa Maria Bambina.
The short walk is worth it just for the beautiful view, and the spot is also suitable as a picnic area. The church is usually closed.
In addition to the typical Sardinian trees such as cork oaks, strawberry trees, and holm oaks, rare and endemic (found only here) plants also grow on the plateau.
Orchids even thrive in the swamps of Giara.
In spring, these swamps are completely covered with the white flowers of the water crowfoot.
For interested tourists, a small botanical garden has been created, housing the most important plants of Giara.
You’ll pass by it on the way from the parking lot (Tuili access) to Pauli Majori. (see map)
At the edge of Giara, strategically important points are marked by the remains of 22 Nuraghes.
The plateau formed a kind of natural fortress, well-defended against enemies due to its steep slopes.
In the photo is the Nuraghe Tutturuddu, located near the Botanical Garden.
The main attraction of Giara di Gesturi is the wild horses that live here, known to the Sardinians as “Is Quadeddus.”
This horse breed is globally unique. It is believed that the animals were originally brought to the island by the Phoenicians in the 8th or 9th century BC. They are exceptionally resilient, hardy, and reach only a shoulder height of about 1.20 meters.
During the Middle Ages, the horses still lived in various areas of Sardinia.
The few remaining horses of Giara belonged to some families in villages nearby. They were captured in the summer and used in agriculture for threshing grain.
With the advent of threshing machines, the horses were no longer needed. Consequently, many animals were slaughtered or sold.
When their numbers had dropped to 150-200 in the 1960s, environmentalists raised awareness about the looming extinction of the breed.
Initially, the owners were financially supported to continue keeping the wild horses.
In 1996, the Sardinian Regional Government provided sufficient funds, and the horses were bought by the reserve.
Since then, the animals have been living undisturbed and free on the plateau.
The population has increased to around 600 individuals.
The horses live in peaceful coexistence with numerous other animals such as cattle, pigs, sheep, and goats.
If you want to observe the wild horses, the best chances are at the ponds formed by rainwater (Pauli).
Although these shallow ponds almost completely dry up in the summer, the horses still like to stay near the watering spots.
Their flight distance is about 50 meters, but sometimes they come very close to the picnic areas to beg for food.
If you drive up from Setzu to the parking lot, you will pass by the rock-cut tomb Casa dell’Orco (Giants’ House).
These rock-cut tombs (Domus de Janas) are typical of the cultures from the prehistory of Sardinia, which were later succeeded by the Nuragic civilization.
Further evidence of early human settlement includes the remains of workshops where flint and especially obsidian were processed.
The ascent from Setzu is the steepest of the three options.
Often, after passing through the gate, you may still be allowed to drive a little further by car.
However, it’s advisable to ask the rangers at the entrance beforehand, just to be safe.
The further stretch is an uneven dirt track, and depending on the type of vehicle you have, you might want to consider continuing on foot instead.
Approximately 2 km north is the Pauli Salamengianu, where larger groups of wild horses are often found congregating.