Fordongianus, Lago Omodeo and surroundings
map of Fordongianus with marked places of interest
Fordongianus is located on the Tirso, one of the largest rivers on the island.
Even in the height of summer, it still carries plenty of water.
A bridge made of reddish trachyte blocks spans the river valley into the center.
The name Fordongianus traces back to the Roman settlement of Forum Traiani.
Here, at the border with Barbagia (which the Romans never managed to conquer), the Roman garrison “Aquae Hypsitanae” was initially established.
Its purpose was to ensure the protection of the Roman-controlled areas in the Tirso plain, located halfway between the Roman settlements of Caralis (Cagliari) and Turris Lybissonis (Porto Torres).
Soon, this area developed into an important trading and market hub for peaceful exchange with the population in the interior of Sardinia. These central squares were called “forum” by the Romans, from which the name “Forum Traiani” evolved under Emperor Trajan.
The Roman thermal baths
The ancient thermal complex is the main attraction of Fordongianus.
Favored by the thermal springs, which flow water at temperatures of 40-56°C, a magnificent complex of two Roman baths was created.
The complex consisted of two buildings from the 1st and 3rd centuries AD.
In the older bath, the hot spring was utilized, and an intricate system was in place to regulate the water temperature. This involved mixing the thermal water with cold water from other sources via bronze barriers before it flowed into the large pool.
This pool was covered by a barrel vault, of which only a partial portion remains today on one side. (photo)
In the later-built bath, water was heated by wood fires. This allowed for heating of the walls and floors with hot air. Like most Roman baths, the building was divided into a changing room (Apodyterium) and rooms with pools of different water temperatures (Frigidarium, Tepidarium, and Calidarium).
The ruins of the Roman thermal baths are managed by a cooperative.
Upon purchasing a ticket, visitors receive an audio guide providing information about the site in several languages, including English.
Below the ancient site, there are also two pools through which the hot water flows.
Visitors can at least briefly dip their hands into these pools.
From here, the water flows into the Tirso River, where it quickly cools down.
If you intend to wade into the river mouth, please be cautious – there are significant temperature differences within a few meters.
Today, you can experience the healing effects of the mineral springs in a modern thermal facility located on the opposite bank of the river.
Casa Aragonese
Admission to the house is included in the ticket for the Roman baths.
From the baths, a path leads up into the village.
You first pass by the remains of a Roman road constructed from large basalt slabs.
At the top of the village, you arrive at Casa Aragonese, an aristocratic building from the 16th century.
The house was privately owned and continuously inhabited until it was sold to the municipality in 1978. Extensive restoration work followed, and it was opened to visitors.
The building is a typical example of the construction of a wealthy residence in inland Sardinia.
The roof structure consists of a wooden frame covered initially with reeds, upon which the roof tiles rest. This arrangement provides good insulation during the hot summer months.
Red trachyte was used as the building material. The doorways and windows are intricately crafted in the Spanish-Aragonese style, which gave the house its name.
Chiesa San Lussorio
The lovely church made of red trachyte is located on SS 388, approximately 1 km west of Fordongianus.
It is named after San Lussorio, a Roman soldier who converted to Christianity. He suffered martyrdom here during the Christian persecutions under Diocletian.
In the 4th century, an underground tomb was built in his honor, which now serves as the crypt of the church.
The building, constructed in the Romanesque style, dates back to the 12th century and was built by the Vittorini monks, who made it their duty to enhance sites of martyrs.
Several collapses and structural failures necessitated numerous renovations and repairs, resulting in the church’s appearance changing over time.
Lago Omodeo
The lake is not only one of the largest reservoirs in Sardinia but also in the whole of Italy.
The first dam (photo) was completed in 1924, designed by engineer Angelo Omodeo, after whom the emerging lake was named.
Today, the water covers several prehistoric sites and the former village of Zuri.
The village was rebuilt on the lakeshore, with only the old church completely dismantled and reconstructed in the new village.
The construction of the reservoir was part of a project to utilize hydropower for electricity generation and to irrigate the Tirso and Campidano plains.
Due to structural concerns with the first dam, a new dam was built further downstream from 1982 to 1996. This dam bears the name of the Sardinian national heroine Eleonora d’Arborea.
San Pietro di Zuri
After the first dam for the future Lago Omodeo was completed, the residents of Zuri had to abandon their old village, and the village was rebuilt at a higher elevation within a short period.
During low water levels, the old submerged houses are said to be visible in the lake.
The church of San Pietro from the old Zuri was carefully dismantled stone by stone and reconstructed faithfully in the new village.
This late Romanesque structure dates back to the 12th century and was built from red trachyte blocks.
Above the entrance, there is a flat relief depicting Peter, Mary with Jesus, and five apostles.
The interior of the church is very plain, and the roof construction is entirely made of wood.
Soddi
From Zuri, you can take a detour to the neighboring village of Soddi.
Along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of the reservoir, and some narrow roads from Soddi lead down to the shore.
Even during the peak season, it’s very quiet down there, with hardly any tourists visiting.
Unfortunately, many of the petrified tree trunks found in and around the lake have been stolen.
In front of the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, you’ll find some beautiful specimens of these fossils on display (photo).
The structure of the petrified tree trunks is so well preserved that at first glance, you might think there were trees here not long ago.
At the junction leading to the church, you’ll see a brown signpost indicating “tronchi pietrificati” (see map).