Su Tempiesu Sacred Well and Nuraghe Complex of Noddule
map of Su Tempiesu and Noddule with the marked sights
Su Tempiesu Sacred Well
This sacred well is by far the best-preserved on Sardinia. It was built around the 12th century BC and buried by a landslide in the 9th century BC.
It was accidentally discovered in 1953 while searching for water, partially excavated in 1958, and fully excavated and reconstructed between 1981-86.
The precision with which the stones were cut and assembled is impressive. Trachyte and basalt, which do not occur locally, were transported from far away. The precisely cut stone blocks were partly mortared with lead.
The temple is about 3.5 meters high and originally had a capstone at the top into which 20 bronze swords were embedded.
The spring water still fills a chamber, the holiest part of the temple. From here, it flows through a small channel into the antechamber and then drains through an opening in the front wall. Beneath the wall is a small shaft where the water collects again. This construction still works after over 3000 years.
On the sides of the antechamber are two benches. As with other Nuragic sacred wells, a staircase (here with four steps) leads from the antechamber into the water-filled chamber.
A unique feature of Su Tempiesu is the sedimentation basin at the bottom of the chamber, where dirt particles settle, keeping the water clear.
Numerous votive offerings were found around the temple, now displayed in the Archaeological Museum in Nuoro.
If you want to visit and photograph the temple in sunlight, it is best to come in the morning. The slope faces northeast, so it is in the shade later.
How to get there: First, drive to Orune. The temple is well signposted from here. A narrow asphalt road branches off at the cemetery, which you follow for about 5 km. The last section before the visitor center is unpaved and very steep. You can also park at the end of the asphalt road, which I especially recommend for travelers with motorhomes, as the parking lot further up is too small for turning around. (see map)
The site is managed by a cooperative that has set up a nice little visitor center. From its terrace, you have a wonderful view of the valley.
From here, a path leads down the very steep slope to the temple. The hike takes about 15 minutes. I recommend wearing sturdy shoes and bringing water.
The entire path is laid out as a botanical nature trail. Lovingly crafted signs made of cork bark name the trees and shrubs found here in Italian, Sardinian, and Latin.
Nuraghe Complex of Noddule
If you are interested in more sacred wells after visiting Su Tempiesu, I recommend a detour to Noddule. This Nuragic cult site is little known to tourists and barely mentioned in the literature.
The associated Nuraghe stands about 200 meters from the road on a rocky outcrop at the highest point of the area. However, it is largely destroyed.
About 100 meters south of the Nuraghe is the sacred well. The structure, built of trachyte and granite blocks, is still well preserved and the spring carries water even in high summer.
You first enter a semicircular antechamber leading to a rectangular chamber with side benches at the back.
In the rear wall, a small access opens to a water basin fed by the covered spring.
If you wander around the site, you will find several walls of round huts near the sacred well, with some still showing the fire pits. Excavations in the 1960s uncovered a Giants’ tomb east of the Nuraghe, although it is barely preserved.
How to get there: The Noddule cult site is located directly on the SS389 at km 86.8. If you are coming from Nuoro, you will see a large iron gate on the right side of the road shortly after the turnoff towards Benetutti. The site was freely accessible for a long time, but it has since been developed for tourism and guided tours are now offered.